The Pallavicini family has been present in the Lazio area since the 1600s and today’s Tenute Principe Pallavicini estates are located in some of the region’s most dedicated terroirs: from the historic Colonna zone, location of most of the vines, the winery’s offices, the cellars and the ageing grottos, to Cerveteri, especially in the unique Maccarese area, where the diversity of terrains and grapes is the underpinning that differentiates the timbre of the estate’s red wine range.
The winery’s aces are still its whites. The 1670 project is definitely to be looked out for, a malvasia puntinata and Semillon blend whose 2007 version has sage and Mediterranean maquis on the nose, with a taut mineral palate, savoury verging on salty, and a long finale tinged with notes of white-fleshed fruit. For us the maison’s Stillato ’08 is definitely a classic: partially-dried malvasia puntinata with orange peel and dried apricot on the nose, nuanced with chestnut honey and acacia, followed by a fresh palate with notes of beeswax. Amongst this year’s reds we picked out the Soleggio ’06 Cabernet Sauvignon with warm notes and striking depth.
One of the top estates in Lazio, Pallavicini's best wine is the sticky-sweet Stillato, the 2004 of which is one of the finest sweet wines ever made in Italy. That it is so little known, even in Italy, gives you an exact measure of the marketing difficulties even high-quality Lazio producers face. Prior to the 2006 vintage, it was made entirely from late-harvested grapes, but the ill-timed rains of the '05 vintage greatly diluted quality and ruined what would otherwise have been a fine wine. Hence, beginning with the 2006 vintage, a portion of the grapes are air-dried in an effort to reduce the risk of leaving all the grapes out on the vines in Lazio's fickle autumn weather. The label carries the malvasia puntinata name at my urging, as the malvasia-only attribute they used previously on the label didn't specify that this wine (or the dry Malvasia Puntinata La Giara) is made with a variety of malvasia called puntinata or del Lazio, as opposed to the poorer Candia variety.
Also recommended: 2007 Poggio Verde Frascati Superiore (86), 2007 Pagello Lazio Bianco (85), 2005 Soleggio Lazio Rosso (85), 2004 Moroello Lazio Rosso (86).
Giara (100% malvasia puntinata) Light gold. High-pitched, herbal aromas of coriander, citrus peel and mint, with whiffs of minerals and tangerine. This crisp wine shows flavors similar to its aromas and finishes firm and persistent, with stony and herbal elements. Classic rather than exotic, and a very good example of a light, uncomplicated white wine that goes well with a range of dishes.
Casa Romana (a blend of cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot) Good, deep red. Violet, wild spices, smoked meat, cracked black pepper and herbs on the complex, inviting nose. Enters sweet, supple and silky, with a liqueur-like ripeness and enticing aromatic character to the flavors of ripe raspberry and smoky plum, but then clenches down to reveal somewhat drying tannins. Finishes with lingering smoky fruit.
Stillato (100% malvasia puntinata) Deep straw-gold. Intense, highly complex aromas of citrus fruit, ripe peach, honey, ripe green fig and papaya are nicely lifted by noble rot. Seductively silky and rich on the palate, this very sweet wine showcases malvasia puntinata's ripe tropical fruit flavors and resiny, creamy mouth feel. Bright acids give the wine wonderful clarity and lift, and extend the flavors on the palate-staining finish, but this wine will not make old bones. (Unfortunately, my early tastings of the '07 Stillato do not bode as well.)
Milleseicentosettanta 2006 - The decidedly sweet flavour of new peas and the onion tone down the saltiness of Trento's locally cured "San Giovanni" cod. The dish is balanced, not at all aggressive, all the smoother and more delicate if heat is kept to a minimum and the fish drizzled occasionally with white wine in vegetable broth. An aristocratic, lightly fumé white, blended from malvasia puntinata and semillon, revealing citrus, wisteria, lavender and moss notes.
"Grand Moroello – a deep red wow"
by Luciano Di Lello
The Principe Pallavicini winery and its team of technicians, including Giovanna Trisorio, have worked hard to achieve tangible results. They will be presenting an impressive range of reds, from the appealing harmony of the Syrah '07, an attractive young newcomer, to the Soleggio '06, a Bordeaux blend offering the best value for money we know, with a delicious complexity on the nose thanks to ripe berry fruits of dense, refined chewiness.
The Amarasco '06, from cesanese grapes harvested just a tad on the late side, is another charismatic red wine, whose precious nuances of ripe, fleshy fruit are drizzled with sweet vanilla.
Last but not least, the grand Moroello '06, a sangiovese/merlot blend whose inky red has its own wow factor, leading into the sumptuous appeal of the nose and a magnificent palate with rich flavours that justifiably rank it up there with other Italian greats.
"Rome wasn't built in a day", as they say – and patience and perseverance are amongst the most important virtues of a winery. Principe Pallavicini have certainly used them to good effect in their long-term project to create wines of the highest quality and character in the unexpected area of the Castelli Romani. Beyond the traditional production of Frascati, the new vineyards near the coast above Cerveteri – with their completely different terroirs - are proving an exciting source of grapes which are being used to diversify the range of wines produced. This year, several new wines have been released. "1670" 2006 is a white wine made from a blend of Malvasia Puntinata and other varieties which offers refined aromatics, good structure and a long, balanced finish. "Moroello" moves to the 2005 vintage and shows an unusual elegance, allied to breadth and depth. The 2007 vintage of the now famous "Stillato" has complexity and richness in abundance. There is also an interesting new Syrah from 2007 to look out for. "Poggio Verde" Frascati Superiore 2007 provides reliable, generous fruit as always. Newcomer "Casa Romana" 2006 makes its first appearance this year. Based on Cabernet Franc, this displays a strikingly full and long palate. Finally, Amarasco 2006 continues to offer its usual, almost excessive, mature scents with echoes of dark fruit jams.
Stillato 2006 - a classy passito made entirely from Malvasia del Lazio (also known as Malvasia puntinata) grapes which are allowed to "air dry" on the vines until late in October. Stillato's colour is golden with hints of copper and the nose offers a fine and intoxicating mixture of aromas such as acacia and almond flower honey, candied orange peel, dried apricots coupled with whiffs of iodine and minerals.
The sweetness and the warm, creamy texture of the palate are well balanced by a fresh, lively acidity - the whole conveying the aromas perfectly through in the mouth. The merest hint of a bitter almond twist, a characteristic of the grape variety, signals the wine's finish. Principe Pallavicini's vineyards are situated on the volcanic slopes of the "Castelli Romani" hills.
Latium-based winery Principe Pallavicini has let nothing stand in the way of its growth in the last few years. It has come up with a range of increasingly persuasive labels and its team of technicians (also joined by Giovanna Trisorio, in 2002) works hard to achieve tangible results. The Casa Romana ’06, mentioned in our last edition and now about to make its market debut, will convince any of you out there. We tasted Casa Romana 2007, still evolving in barrique, and this vintage simply confirmed what a thrilling wine this is. There is no getting away from the fact that hard vineyard graft will come up with the goods and this product will definitely go far. Actually, tasting of the chief wines has been memorable, in particular the Frascati Poggio Verde, never as inviting and succulently tropical as this ’08 vintage. Pallavicini also boasts an impressive range of reds, from the appealing harmony of the Syrah ’07, an attractive newcomer from a vineyard that has only just started production, to the Soleggio ’06, a Bordeaux blend offering the best value for money we know, a prize red, right from the deep colour to the delicious complex nose with the dense, refined chewiness of the ripe berry fruits. The Amarasco ’06, from cesanese grapes harvested just a tad on the late side, is another charismatic red wine, whose precious nuances of ripe, fleshy fruit are drizzled with sweet vanilla.
Last but not least, the grand Moroello ’06 is a sangiovese/merlot blend whose inky red has its own wow factor, leading into the sumptuous appeal of the nose and a sweet, rich palate. A fine red wine that justifiably ranks up there with other Italian grea
Stillato 2006 from Principe Pallavicini is a passito from the region of Lazio made from the noble Malvasia Puntinata or Malvasia del Lazio grape variety, (not to be confused with the much more "commercial" Malvasia di Candia).
For years now, this wine has garnered prize after prize - proof both of its consistent quality and of its sheer pleasure-giving capacity.
Its colour is typical of the genre: bright amber with golden flashes. The nose is spectacular: sultanas, figs, dried apricots, dates, honey, vanilla and ripe tropical fruit all manage to coexist in a picture of perfect harmony and top-notch winemaking. The entry to the palate is sweet but not cloying, and remains silky in spite of the considerable weight and texture. The finish is long and duly echoes the dried apricots, sultanas and honey from the nose. Guaranteed to make you lick your lips when sipped along with fruit tarts and sweet biscuits.
Poggio Verde 2006
The wine we have here is effectively the basis of the wine range produced by the 'Principe Pallavicini' Estate - in the Roman Hills. A Frascati Superiore which should be an inspiration to all the other Producers of this DOC - the most traditional in Lazio - to emulate this level of quality. If a 'mere' Frascati Superiore can be this good, there is still hope that what used to be by rights the Romans' favourite wine could regain that position - after decades of Frascati being synonymous with wines of no personality, to put it kindly. Poggio Verde is produced with the classic combination of 50% Malvasia di Candia, plus Malvasia del Lazio, Trebbiano Toscano and antique rarities such as Greco Bianco and Grechetto. Vinification is temperature-controlled and maturation is carried out in stainless steel tanks. The colour is pale straw with green hints, the nose is broad, showing both fruit and floral aspects. The palate is clean, dry and fresh, with a certain length.
Suggested serving temperature: 10 -128C. Food pairing: Seafood 'antipasti' and fish or vegetable risotto and soft cheeses. Try it also with a spelt and bean soup. Widely available.
The wine aristocracy
Lazio's best red? Will almost certainly be 'Casa Romana' 2006
The work that Mauro De Angelis has been doing in the vineyards for the last 14 years is bearing ever more important fruit. So much so that this Producer is now in the vanguard - especially for red wines. In past years we have enthused about the expressive Soleggio - a very good value Bordeaux blend. Thanks to vines which are now more mature and based on this latter wine, 2006 will be the first vintage of a new wine 'Casa Romana' - to be released in the next couple of months. In our opinion, this will be the best red wine in Lazio - with its fine notes of intense and sumptuous forest berries. In spite of its powerful and complex nose, it is remarkably drinkable already. The other flagship red wine of the Estate is 'Moroello'.
The 2005 vintage, with its elegance, finesse and impetuous fruit surpasses both the 2004 and the 2003 - its maiden vintage. Another wine in the range which demands a mention is Stillato 2007. Hints of tropical fruits blend with fresh fig and dried dates blend on the palate. This is easily amongst the best sweet wines of central Italy.
"Stillato" began its relationship with our guides in the 2005 edition of "Bere Dolce". Since then it hasn't missed a single appointment, and has always proved itself of an excellent quality level. Having said that, this year's version is even more convincing that last year's; showing more concentration and body, with more intensity on the nose and richer extract on the palate. In the glass, the wine is of a fine golden colour with amber reflections. The nose is initially a little closed due to its youth, but then starts to open out and display a panoply of aromas. Sweet vanilla, spicy ginger, dried fruits - above all figs and dates - marron glacé, apricot, peach, banana, tamarind, confectioner's cream pastries and sugar-coated almonds.
In the mouth, the wine is immediately more forthcoming: soft, balanced and underpinned by a freshness which makes it irresistible already and structure that easily matches the high alcohol level. The aftertaste mingles sweet citrus, dried fruit and pastries, shot through with a fresh mineral note. Try it with millefeuille pastry with chantilly cream and marron glace.
3.5 spheres.
Poggio Verde '06, winner of a "value-for-money Oscar"
Here is a perfect example of what a good Frascati should be like.
Poggio Verde 2006, the foundation wine of the Principe Pallavicini range, is a wine of pale straw colour with green tints and a nose showing floral and white fruit characters. The palate is well-balanced, pleasantly fresh and clear-cut. White peach notes echo though on the respectable finish.
Nowadays in the wine world, the ability continually to reassert and maintain the level and reliability of one's production is more important than a single meteoric, yet isolated success.
This is precisely the objective reached by the indefatigable team of this Estate in the Roman Hills, inspired and guided by the noble Pallavicini family: that of offering an entire range of undoubted depth and interest. The forward-looking programme encompasses the undeniable potential of the vineyards at Cerveteri, the addition of new wines and interesting initiatives for the many wine-lovers wishing to visit the area. The 2006 Poggio Verde is excellent, with expressive fruit fragrances and a deliciously fine structure. Moroello 2004, a blend of Sangiovese Grosso and Merlot, is generous and harmonious. Distinct citrus notes from the Greco component mark the soft, yet long Pagello 2006. The remaining wines in the range offer an ideal variety of styles, all with specific characters, to satisfy every palate. Stillato 2006, for instance, made from Malvasia Puntinata, is sweet but also complex.
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
Score: [Wine That Excels in Its Category] Soleggio shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of black cherry and blueberry followed by aromas of black currant, plum, violet, vanilla and carob. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry and blueberry. Soleggio ages for 12 months in barrique.
Alcohol: 13.5%
Food match: Stewed meat with mushrooms, Broiled meat and barbecue, Roasted meat Suggested glass Bodied or Mature Red Wines
Suggested serving temperature : 18° C (64° F) (Bodied or Mature Red Wines)
Grapes: Sangiovese Grosso, Merlot
Score: Very Good
This wine shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, little transparency. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas that start with hints of black cherry, plum and black currant followed by aromas of blueberry, cinnamon, bell pepper, violet, tobacco, vanilla, chocolate and menthol. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry, plum and black currant. Moroello ages in cask.
Alcohol: 14%
Food match: Roasted meat, Braised and stewed meat, Hard cheese Suggested glass Bodied or Mature Red Wines
Suggested serving temperature : 18° C (64° F) (Bodied or Mature Red Wines)
Carefully selected partially-dried grapes are the secret of this extremely elegant dessert wine. Beautiful pale gold in colour, fine and crystalline in appearance. Elegant perfumes of honey, apricot, yellow plums with hints of iodine and mineral notes blend together to create a particularly fascinating whole. Not a blockbuster of a wine, therefore, but a wine of subtlety and finesse. Sweet yet fresh, the finish goes on for ever. [Five months maturation in stainless steel]. 91 points.
Praise where praise is due - for this fine estate in Colonna (Province of Rome), which has pinned its hopes unreservedly on the traditional and indigenous grape varieties of central Italy. Amongst the latter, 'Malvasia Puntinata' - a historic variety in the Roman countryside area - which stands out, both for its aromatic power (far superior to the neutral 'Malvasia di Candia' variety) and for its aptitude for "hosting" the spores of noble rot.
Turning to the 2005 vintage of "Stillato", we find a wine of pale amber colour, not particularly brilliant in aspect. The powerful nose, is fresh and enticing with initial notes of sweet acacia flowers, violets, camomile, citrus fruits, apricots, pineapple and banana. The latter even with hints of dried bananas, accompanied by herbal nuances of elder and sage. The entry on the palate is fairly balanced, sweet and fresh - though later the alcohol and acidity tend to dry out the palate a little on the finish. The aftertaste is first convincing, then the latter effect tends to steer the wine towards a more vegetal finish. Ideal with a cake based on apricots and chopped hazelnuts.
The aristocratic Pallavicini family has always had a special affection for their holdings which are especially suitable for winegrowing. Indeed, in Lazio most of their vineyards are situated in one of the highest quality areas of Lazio for viticulture. Careful selection of the best 'Malvasia del Lazio' grapes (also known as Malvasia Puntinata'), gives birth to this sweet, golden - almost amber - wine with brilliant reflections. The perfumes are intense and pleasing with elegant and subtle notes of almonds and confectioner's cream with hints of Acacia honey.
In the mouth, the distinct acidity prevents this sweet wine from being cloying and the finish shows candyfloss and caramel. This is one of the few Italian dessert wines which manages to convince us - thanks to its genuineness and pleasure-giving nature. All round, this is an excellent wine. Our tip is to drink it slightly below 12 degrees centigrade.
Thanks to patient and constant improvements on the structural and production fronts, this aristocratic estate in the Castelli Romani area deserves close attention - offering a series of interesting and often highly successful wines. This propulsive energy comes from the inherent conviction of the Pallavicini family and from the constant contribution of three important figures: the 'wise' winemaker Carlo Roveda, the 'tenacious' agronomist Mauro De Angelis and the untiring 'ambassadress' Giovanna Trisorio. Today, the estate, which comprises 80 hectares split between Colonna and Cerveteri is also well-equipped for group visits and various types of tasting events.
Let's start off with the reds. First of all, Moroello '03 is made from Sangiovese Grosso and Merlot and reminds one of wild cherries and fresh tobacco on the nose - with a balance, rounded palate and a slightly dry finish. As a complete contrast, Amarasco '03 shows ripe Cesanese grapes bringing their unmistakable stamp of red fruit jam and the palate is of notable structure and length. Pagello '05 stands out amongst the whites.
Made from Greco, Grechetto and Falanghina, it bursts with citrus aromas on the nose - balanced by similar fruit on the palate. La Giara '05 is less rich but a fragrant and expressive 100% 'Malvasia Puntinata', nonetheless.
Poggio Verde '05 Frascati is correct and convincing, with a crisp, floral finish. We close with the wine that is fast becoming the standard-bearer of the Pallavicini estate. Stillato '05 is an excellent Passito wines made only from precious 'Malvasia Puntinata' grapes. It displays a complex bouquet, which mingles the penetrating freshness of Lavender flowers with the full flavour of candied Apricots.
Once again, Pallavicini have passed the test with flying colours and their 2005 vintage wines are particularly convincing. This is also due to the weather in the area during the 2004 season, which made it difficult to achieve full phenolic maturity. For his reason, both Soleggio and La Cavata 2004 need more time in barrel to soften their slightly rough edges. The 2005 whites are excellent - especially as regards their aromas. Stillato deserves a special mention in that the 2005 version benefited from more severe bunch selection, enabling it to offer even more perfume and overall pleasure.
STILLATO 2005 - 5 grappoli/5 grappoli
The hue is golden with hints of copper. On the nose, it is full and captivating. It pours out fine aromas of cooked grape must, mandarin skins, bitter orange peel and dried apricots. In the mouth, it is warm, soft and caressing. The sweetness is well balanced by the the acidity and by the typical vein of bitter almond of the grape variety. The long finish reminds one of dried fruits. After air-drying on the vine, 25% is vinified in acacia wood barriques. The whole is then matured for 5 months in stainless steel. Splendid with almond tart.
FRASCATI SUPERIORE POGGIO VERDE 2005 - 3 grappoli/5 grappoli
Bright, intense straw colour. Fragrant notes of herbs, including lavender - plus almonds. In the mouth, it is warm and full - enriched with distinct mineral notes. Finishes with a classic twist of almonds. Fish with sauce.
AMARASCO 2004 - 3 grappoli/5 grappoli
Beautiful purple 'robe'. Deep notes of forest floor, preserved cherries and touches of liquorice. The alcohol level is high and the tannins dense and drying. Air-drying on the vine then one year in 40 hectolitre barrels. Steak.
LA GIARA 2005 - 3 grappoli/5 grappoli
Full straw. Delicate bouquet of broom flowers, camomile, sage and peaches. Warm and well-made; the hard and soft elements are well-integrated together. Typical almond aftertaste. Spaghetti with 'Cacio e pepe' [pecorino cheese and black pepper].
PAGELLO 2005 - 3 grappoli/5 grappoli
Luminous straw colour. Unmistakable aromas of acacia flowers and tropical fruit. Distinct 'backbone' of fresh acidity. Finishes with a pleasant and cleansing bitter twist. 25% is fermented in barrique. Chicken with 'Garam Masala'.
Stillato 2004 – "One cannot live on bread and tulips alone ... " – by which I mean not flowers but pastry tartlets used in this case to contain ice cream.
For chocolate flakes, use a delicate and smooth 'criollo' chocolate and garnish the whole with whipped cream flavoured with cinnamon. Matched with 'Supercannellino' – Malvasia del Lazio 'Stillato' 2004, the whole turns into pure seduction. Sweet and tender is the Roman night ...
Pallavicini produces several successful labels: ranging from Frascati to reds such as 'Soleggio', from Cabernet Sauvignon and 'La Cavata', from Cabernet, Montepulciano, Sangiovese and Cesanese - but also convincing whites from Malvasia Puntinata grapes.
One of these if of course 'Stillato', a rich and sumptuous late harvest dessert wine - but there is also 'La Giara' '04. The colour is brilliant greenish straw, the aromas are of ripe fruit such as apples and peach, with overtones which start off floral, then end as aromatic. On the palate it is fresh and lively with good fruit - finishing with delicate citrus and aromatic notes.
"The Lords of Lazio" by Silvio Governi
The Pallavicini family are recorded in Lazio since the second half of the 17th century. It is perhaps this deep familiarity with the region which has allowed the winery to achieve such high standards. It is impressive that, even with a fairly high production volume of circa one million bottles per annum, the quality continues to increase year by year.
91/ Stillato 2004 - The colour is between old gold and amber and the nose unleashes: candied fruit, bergamot, acacia honey, orange peel. In the mouth, it is round and warm, but - like all good sweet wines - has enough acidity to balance the sweetness. Partial drying of the grapes on the vine is followed by fermentation partly in stainless steel and partly in acacia wood barriques. 'Torroncino' ice cream.
90/ Moroello 2003 - Deep 'robe' of ruby red, the rim still showing hints of youthful purple. A nose of great elegance and originality. Though clearly with more to express - given time - it offers an already complex nose, composed of: blackberries, cherries, blueberries, which then develops mineral notes, black pepper and a hint of mint. On the palate it is fleshy and sapid with round and noble tannins. A big wine, which nevertheless shows lingering sensations of fruits and spices on the finish. The grapes come from a vineyard owned by the family at 'Montetosto' in the southern Maremma (in Lazio). Maturation in large oak barrels. Try it with a stew of venison and onions.
87/ Soleggio 2003 - Deep ruby red. Deep herbaceous aromas of undergrowth, blackberries, blackcurrants, Mediterranean herbs and juniper allied to mineral and balsamic notes. The palate is deep and softly fleshy. Tannic extraction is good, yet the finish shows a surprisingly delicate freshness. A long aftertaste, finishing slightly dry. First and second year barriques. Duck with Orange.
86/ Poggio Verde 2004 - Straw colour with golden hints. Nose perfectly in line with the aromatic profile of Malvasia del Lazio: hawthorn flowers, almonds, pears, sweet biscuits. In the mouth one finds a strong vein of acidity and salinity. An overall softness gives perfect balance and leads to a long finish. Stainless steel only. Pumpkin risotto.
83/ Amarasco 2003 - Brilliant ruby. Unusual aromas characterize this Cesanese, whose grapes undergo partial drying on the vine before vinification in stainless steel. An initial vegetal note gives way to black pepper and star anise spice. The muscular attack reflects the high alcohol level and tannins, which though slightly green are still fine. Guinea Fowl with prune and chestnut stuffing.
The Pallavicini family own one of the most dynamic wine estates in the whole region and place considerable emphasis on indigenous grape varieties in particular.
"Stillato", a dessert wine made from Malvasia Puntinata, is a perfect example. "La Giara" and "Amarasco" are also good. The winery can be reached by exiting the A1 Rome-Naples motorway at Monte Porzio Catone, then following directions for Colonna.
Tasting notes: deep yellow gold in colour, the nose is quite aromatic, with notes of citrus fruits, peach, cinnamon and above all, acacia honey. In the mouth, it is pleasingly clean and fresh, with echoes of the citrus fruits and tropical fruit, but the wine's most distinctive feature is its particular quality of rich sweetness.
Food matching: this is pre-eminently a wine to enjoy on its own, but it will also go well with fruit tarts, with foie gras and with natural Gorgonzola.
Cesanese as a grape variety is very sensitive to environmental factors: altitude, soil type, proximity to the sea and specific microclimates - as well as to seasonal weather variations. The resulting wines are always very distinctive and unique to the year of production, yet the colour is always a constant - deep ruby, tending to garnet with age and the aromas always a variation on violets and wild cherries - even Morello Cherry Brandy in the best vintages.
"Amarasco", produced by the Pallavicini Winery is made from Cesanese grapes which are sun-dried on the vine for roughly one month. The single vineyard is situated on stony calcareous soil - ideal for Cesanese - on the volcanic slopes of the "Castelli Romani" hills.
After the first vintage, 2002, with its typical Cesanese notes on a herbaceous base in this case, the 2003 vintage is in a different register - thanks to the sunny conditions of the year, which allowed the variety to develop its characteristics to the full. We find a clear yet concentrated appearance, showing a fine, balanced colour which is still youthful. The texture is such that the wine leaves evident signs of glycerine on the glass when swirled. The nose is very powerful, transmitting preserved wild cherries, mature cherry stones, tamarind, forest berries - delicately enhanced with overtones of candied violets, nutmeg and mint. On the palate, we find exceptional breadth, with a velvet touch, supported by significant extract and fine wood tannins. In fact, the very full weight and high alcohol are perfectly balanced by good acidity and the intense 'sapidity' of taste given by the volcanic terroir. The finesse of this Amarasco is exhilarating, its sweetness seductive, its length impressive and its finish, with a twist of almonds, is first rank. In short, a harmonious and coherent wine - right from the choice of its name to its lingering aftertaste. It lends itself perfectly to matches with herbed and or spiced red meats, game and mid to long-aged cheeses. Serve at c. 16 to 18 degrees Centigrade - in medium sized crystal glasses'. Its nature even lends itself to being sipped on it own as a classic 'vino da meditazione' - in this case best at normal temperature.
The Principe Pallavicini winery makes it first appearance in the guide this year with two beautiful wines: Amarasco 2003, 100% Cesanese and Stillato 2003, a 'passito' made from Malvasia del Lazio. The first wine, with personality coming out of its ears, seduces with its aromas of super ripe plum and peach. The palate conveys huge weight, yet in spite of this, the wine is irresistibly drinkable.
The Stillato displays a warm amber colour, streaked with copper. The aromas remind one of marrons glacés and dried apricots and the entry on the palate is excellent and heralds a wine of importance. The only elements which have served to reduce an otherwise very enthusiastic score are the somewhat heavy notes of wood plus the low acidity.
Some people may be skeptical when they hear the pronouncement that "wines resemble their creators". It would be particularly interesting to test the theory by meeting Princess Maria Camilla Pallavicini - after tasting her superb wines. They are undoubtedly wines of class, elegance and ... nobility, which can hold their own in any company. Yet if you imagine they have similarly 'noble' prices, you would be wrong. The family estates, in particular Labico and Cerveteri, are in some of the most enchanting landscapes of Lazio and have belonged to the family for centuries. But the winery has recently seen some radical and innovative changes. Vineyards have been replanted, indigenous varieties such as Cesanese and Malvasia Puntinata have been rediscovered and repositioned, and quality in all phases of production has been imposed. If previously this was 'merely' a Producer of Frascati, Pallavicini is now a leading light amongst progressive wineries.
Poggio Verde, for instance, is a blend of Malvasia Puntinata and Greco on a base of Malvasia di Candia and displays an extremely appealing style. The nose hints at 'cassata' dessert, with a whiff of lilies. The palate has a certain structure, yet is refreshed by acidity on the finish. Overall, a most engaging personality.
The Pallavicini family have owned their wine estates since the middle of the 17th century and take an active part in their management. The results of their efforts speak for themselves - especially in the context of the Lazio region - as the score awarded by the previous edition of our guide for 'Stillato' 2003', as an example, amply demonstrates. An excellent wine, produced from Malvasia Puntinata grapes, dried on the vine for 20 to 30 days and partially fermented in Acacia wood barrels. Our tasting of the 2004 vintage, however, was slightly less interesting. The colour is amber. The nose is fresh, intense and persistent and offers a pleasing ensemble of fruits and herbaceous notes - developing from apricot, to peach, gooseberry, apple and, pear towards Mediterranean herbs such as thyme, sage and savory - with echoes of broom and acacia flowers. The high alcohol disturbs the balance somewhat, though. The mouth, though suitably sweet and broad nevertheless reveals a structure not sufficient to stand up to the considerable acidity. Whereas the aftertaste successfully concludes with a repeat of the sensations on the nose and then finishes with herbs, tea and hibiscus. Would be a good accompaniment to a walnut strudel.
Pagello 2004: fruit of a spot-on blend of Greco, Grechetto and Falanghina varieties (the latter fermented in Acacia barrels) - from the best of the Estate's own vineyards - this wine effortlessly gains access to the restricted club of high-end whites. The colour is golden and mature, the nose rich and pungent with its powerful notes of citrus and delicate hints of rose petals. The palate offers a soft entry, good texture and structure in the middle - with an elegant finish.
Many very good wines here, the dry Pagello and the red Soleggio above all, and especially the sweet Stillato, The variety's folk name, puntinata (dotted) on the label, is there at my insistence, rather than the official one of "malvasia del Lazio" as too many are the lower quality malvasias in Lazio, while this one is the real, quality thing. Their merit, enormous, is having belived in a difficult variety of great potential and then producing one of Italy's greatest sweet wines. Golden yellow, memories of saffron, resin, apricot and honey, sweet fat silky, a wonderfu friend for glass and life.
Moroello 2003, Pallavicini - 'a red wine made for game'
... Pallavicini, who have just released one of the best red wines ever produced in Lazio, 'Moroello' 2003: a rich nose of black cherries and forest berries, the palate is deep and concentrated yet 'articulate', balanced and of undoubted breed. A perfect match for fine poultry and wild game.
Moroello 2003: 89 points
The first impression is of a solid 'block' of fruit, more from the nose than from its impenetrably black appearance. Fruit which is alive, nonetheless, though massively tannic, and which lasts for hours.
Truly a wine of majestic structure, where black fruits (blackcurrant above all) are accompanied by another equally important component: spices. Initial impressions on the nose, in fact, are of wood, mint, aniseed and elderberries - a wonderfully expressive array. The texture is extremely dense and concentrated, woven into a frame of solid extract, resulting in the marvellous richness and alcoholic power of this wine. It finishes with a flashing tail of blackberry and mint - leaving the palate just a little dry due to its sheer weight.
Finally, the interminable and masterful aftertaste, overrides all with a flush of sumptuous and luxuriant opulence.
Carlo Roveda was born near Treviso in the Veneto and studied at Conegliano.
His first work experiences took him to various wineries in Friuli and Veneto. In 1998 he joined Principe Pallavicini, where research had already started into expanding the range upwards. Roveda thus became an integral part of the dynamic evolution that has seen Pallavicini consistently create new wines which today can undoubtedly be counted amongst the most important in Lazio. The new white wines include the magnificent 'Poggio Verde' [originally 'Selezione Verde'] Frascati Superiore and 'Pagello' - made from Falanghina and Greco. Reigning supreme among the whites is 'Stillato', made from 'Malvasia Puntinata' grapes - partially dried on the vine. The 2003 version is a marvellous sweet wine - the 2004 is similar, just slightly less concentrated and opulent, in line with the vintage.
But the biggest jump forward is that of the new red wines, which all show distinct character and convincing personalities. We have previously talked about the 2003 'Soleggio', a Cabernet Sauvignon of rare elegance and breed, which just gets better and better. Then there is the 2003 'Amarasco' which uses partially dried Cesanese grapes in a highly innovative way. Today, however, it's the turn of 'Moroello' which makes its first ever appearance with the 2003 vintage. And what a wine it is - one of the best reds we have tasted in recent months! The Sangiovese and Merlot blend offers a highly original range of noble aromas, while the palate envelopes one with its sweet woodland berry fruits, sprinkled with a hint of exotic spices.
Possessing some floral aromatic characteristics and notes of almonds, this variety, which is part of the traditional blend used for Frascati and Cannellino, also gives good results on its own. Excellent Passito versions are produced as well.
Stillato 2003: Colour is between pale topaz and amber. Distinctly aromatic and varied on the nose, it shows orange blossom honey, sultanas and canned peaches. Dense in the mouth, its sweetness is cut by a vein of fresh sapidity. Very long. Fermented in Acacia barriques and matured in stainless steel. Would pair well with a tart of Apricots and confectioner's cream.
"La Giara 2004 - Straw-coloured with green hints, the nose is fresh and fairly full - with a good range of aromas, ranging from floral to fruit-based ones and finishing with vegetable notes. First, one finds hawthorn, acacia, lavender, lily and white rose flowers on the nose, followed by apple, peach, banana, citrus, pear, almond hay and marjoram - in sequence. The palate entry at first seems austere, with evident acidity still. This, although balanced by the weight of the wine, needs more time to integrate fully. The aftertaste, less powerful than the nose mainly transmits citrus and pomegranate notes."
"On the occasion of it first-ever appearance in the guide, "Stillato" immediately goes to the top of the ratings within Lazio. The wine is made from grapes which are partially dried on the vine and harvested at the end of October. Vinification uses skin contact at the beginning and barrel fermentation towards the end. The wine then matures for 10 months on its lees before bottling. The colour is amber, with orange reflections and one can note its rich texture in glass. The nose is fairly powerful and transmits a wide range of aromas: from apricot, peach, pear, quince, lemon jelly, dates, figs and almonds - to herbs, nut butter, hedgerow honey and toasted hazelnuts. In the mouth, the wine is soft and sweet but still fresh at the same time, with good balance. The finish is slightly compromised by a certain drying effect caused by the alcohol, yet echoes all the fruits and the toasty notes listed previously."
" ... over the last few years, the introduction of a whole series of completely new wines unquestionably qualify this winery as the "most improved" in the whole of Lazio. The whites range from the irresistible and finely-tuned "Poggio Verde" Frascati through the full, yet dry aromatics of "Pagello" to the magnificent "Stillato 2003" (made from vine-dried "Malvasia Puntinata" grapes) - sumptuously rich and fragrant at the same time. The two superstars from the 2003 vintage have to be "Soleggio" Cabernet Sauvignon - a wine of aristocratic complexity - deeper and longer than ever - and "Amarasco", which explores new depths of the local "Cesanese" variety via partially vine-dried grapes. The result is a red wine of superb concentration, which is daringly aromatic, rich in exotic spices and which undoubtedly has a long future ahead of it."
The year of the Super Cesanese
... But there is another innovative and gigantic Cesanese being produced at the gates of Rome. Amarasco 2003 from Pallavicini is made from grapes harvested after 30 days of drying on the vine.
This experiment has been very successful and has yielded a wine of deep colour and a broad complexity of flavours.
Luca Maroni
Soleggio '02: 88 Points - The bouquet has soft spice characteristics which are well balanced with resinous wood tones and fragrant red berry notes. Excellent roundness in the mouth underpinned by soft tannins on the finish. (précis)
Sweet Lazio.
Princess Maria Camilla has surrounded herself with a team whose passion and professionalism are showing results. Amongst the wines produced features a Frascati which shows true 'terroir' characteristics and two wines based on Cabernet Sauvignon: Soleggio and La Cavata. The Pallavicini-Rospogliosi estate is spread between Rome, Colonna and Cerveteri, and within these holdings there exists a myriad of microclimates, each one suited to the cultivation of a particular vine. A notable example of this is the indigenous grape Malvasia Puntinata, which performs extremely well in Colonna creating a "supercannellino" ie a modern version of the traditional sweet wine of the Frascati area". The wine produced from this grape is called 'Stillato' and is extremely sought after, Pallavicini are increasing production to meet the high demand for this fascinating variety. Tasting notes for Stillato '03: The wine has a rich aged-gold colour with hints of amber. The bouquet shows yellow rose petals and broom flowers with dried almond overtones. In the mouth it is full, soft and textured, and has flavours of very ripe, dried fruit delicately laced with a fine thread of vanilla. Well structured and with a persistent taste of fresh walnuts and barley sugar, it is lent a touch of clarity by the cleansing echo of wormwood herb tones on the finish. Partly barrel-fermented in acacia barriques, it is left on its lees for five months before the final blend. It goes exceptionally well with the local 'Pupazza', a dessert made with chestnut honey and orange flowers.
Pallavicini goes from strength to strength. The wines are showing great elegance and balance, for example the Poggio Verde '03 which is fashioned in a tense and exciting style. The Stillato '03 is a creamy, rich wine with real 'passito' character in abundance. Amarasco '02 is a dense brooding wine with prune jam and fresh mango dominating the nose. Soleggio has a rich, round palate with a fruit/mineral mix which makes for excellent drinking. (précis)
"Aristocratic wines from Pallavicini"
"Moroello Diaz Pallavicini was born in Rome in 1970 and has spent most of his life in this captivating city. He lives in the Palace bearing the family name which is adjacent to the Quirinale Palace, and from growing up in such a historic home he is thoroughly steeped in ancient family lore.
He finished his law studies in 1997 and since then has dedicated himself to the family property and to the winery at Colonna which has always produced good quality wine. However, he decided to radically change the vineyards and the wines to create a superior quality range. He has invested heavily in planting new and important vines and making major changes in the winery.
In a very short time Pallavicini have produced such a high quality range that they have become a model winery for the whole area. From the fragrant thoroughbred Frascati Poggio Verde '03; the full and aromatic Pagello '03; the young and agreeable Torre Pasolina; to finally the newborn Amarasco '03 which will be released at the end of the year. This latter is made exclusively from Cesanese grapes which have been left to ripen on the vines.
But the highest results have been obtained with Cabernet Sauvignon Soleggio '02 which is truly aristocratic in its balance and complexity. And with Stillato '03, made from Malvasia Puntinata left to ripen on the vine, which is delicious and sumptuously aromatic.".
"The old and new wines of Lazio"
"... Amongst a proliferation of wineries proposed, the well-established Principe Pallavicini Estate is probably the one whose quality has developed and improved more than any other. From Soleggio '02 which is surely more rounded and complex than the 2001, to Amarasco, Frascati Poggio Verde, Pagello 2003 and finally to the superb and delicious Malvasia Puntinata passito wine Stillato 2003 ..."
Stillato '01 - the best value for money wine. This intense golden yellow wine has a rich and elegant perfume with notes of dried apricot, apple, raisin, broom flowers, vanilla and citrus fruits. On the palate the sensation is one of intense pleasure, soft and lively at the same time and with the perfect balance of acidity. A very delicious wine with a long finish.
Pagello '02 - a blend of Greco, Grechetto and Falanghina, this wine has a straw-yellow colour with golden reflections. On the nose one senses violets and lavender, hints of acacia, jasmine, banana and apple. This is a soft wine with a good balance between warmth and the right touch of acidity.
Another very positive vintage for this Winery. Very high standards across the whole range. Particularly interesting is the Cabernet Sauvignon Soleggio '01 (4 'Stars) which is much more elegant than the previous vintage. The Malvasia Puntinata Passito Stillato '01 is of an extremely fine caliber (4 'Stars') and an excellent testimonial to the potential of this, the greatest of Lazio's indigenous white varieties. What a shame that there is so little of this wine! To compensate, however, Selezione Verde '02 (4 'Stars) appears for the third consecutive year amongst the best of its kind.
A wide range of wines which offers three reds, amongst which Soleggio '01 (2 bicchieri) is the most distinguished. A deep purple Cabernet with one year in barrique and six months in bottle. A strong and noble perfume of mature fruit with good structure and a spicy finish. Also notable is La Cavata '01 (2 bicchieri) made from Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Montepulciano which releases wonderful notes of blackberry, pepper and freshly ground coffee. A full-bodied wine softened by contact with wood. With regard to the whites there is Selezione Verde '02 (1 bicchiere) with a delicious appley palate. La Giara '02 is a pure Malvasia which is gently aromatic. Pagello '02 (1 bicchiere) is from Falanghina, Greco and Grechetto with tones of citrus and jasmine and is elegant and fresh in the mouth. The grand finale is Stillato '01 (2 bicchiere) from Malvasia 'Passito' - naturally dried on the vine by the sun and the wind - captivatingly creamy and rich with yellow peach and honey flavours.
Soleggio '01: 87 points This unique Lazio red is distinguished by intense flavours of plum, quince, and black cherry fruit with just enough tannin and a tantalizing bitterness to create a subtle and rounded balance. Pagello '02: 88 points - Pagello is reminiscent of a fine Friuli or Trentino wine. The palate is of pineapple and kiwi, peach and pear but with a freshness which renders this wine one of the most balanced and delicious whites of Lazio.
"South Superstar - The autochthonal white grapes" by Ian D'Agata
Stillato '01: 85 points - A late-harvested "Malvasia Puntinata" (the noblest of the Lazio clones) is the most recent of many promising new wines from this well-established winery and is the recipient of this special recognition. This wine, although bearing the typical characteristics of the variety, is a lighter and more elegant creation than many Malvasia - even though it is a "passito" (dessert) wine.
A luminous golden colour with a bouquet of peach, apricot and papaya leads to a long mouthfilling but supremely delicate finish.
Soleggio '00: 84 points - Impressions: Bright intense claret colour: a full - bodied wine. A very lively nose: an intense blast of balsamic wild berry fruits. Rich blackcurrants followed by wild cherries. Spicy and minty aromas provide depth and sweetness. The wine is rich and strong, smooth and fragrant. The expertise of the winemaker has created a robust and yet subtle wine with stunning grace."
"It is rare to see such progress in only one year. Pallavicini have almost doubled their improvement. This is obvious from tasting two of their white wines - Pagello '01 and Selezione Verde '01. The first is rich and delicious with flavours of pear and banana and the second is a lighter but intense Frascati with tones of green apple. The Cabernet Sauvignon Soleggio '00 has intense flavours of wild cherry aided by the minty overtones contributed by time spent in oak. This is a superbly pleasurable wine which will keep well."
Soleggio '00: 2 Bicchieri - A great Cabernet from the gates of Rome. Soleggio '00 is a wine of great depth with complex jammy, spicy flavours. Also worth noting are Selezione Verde '01 and the Malvasia which are always improving and show great promise."
La Cavata '98: 4 Stars - "A decisive, warm, soft agreeably fresh minerally wine with subtle tannins and excellent body. A well- balanced long finish.
Pagello '01: 3 Stars - A medium intense nose with jasmine, lemon peel and cream pastries.
Soleggio '00: 3 Stars.
Selezione Verde '01: 3 Stars.
Torre Pasolina '01: 3 Stars.
Vigneto Ponticello '01: 3 Stars.
'Tirso shows the true identity of Cesanese' by Barbara Mengozzi.
... The result is a range of interesting wines with an excellent value for money ratio. Tirso is a perfect example, pure Cesanese with notes of spices and red fruits. It is a warm and limpid wine, with good structure and balance...
"This wine is nectar (and I don't mean metaphorically)" by Luca Maroni
'This is the best Italian wine of all those shown at Vinitaly 2003, the Veronese fair which finished on the 14th April. The improvement in quality of Italian wines over the past ten years is the greatest in the whole history of our wine production. All regions have radically updated viticultural and vinification techniques. ... Lazio is developing nicely. At the forefront are Colle Picchioni, Castel de Polis and Casale del Giglio with their particular Bordeaux styles. Amongst the newcomers the most notable are Poggio Le Volpi and Principe Pallavicini ...'
"I vini dell'Almanacco"
Pallavicini this year also achieved an 'Oscar' for outstanding value for money across their range . Thanks to Frascati 'Selezione Verde'; a selection of grape varieties which has produced a wine with a simple and fragrant perfume sustained by Malvasia de Candia and Malvasia Puntinata. The palate is fresh and balanced.
'La Giara'. Considering the price level of this wine it is surprisingly aromatic and clean. Medium-bodied it offers perfumes of apricot and green apple. It is a perfect aperitif and matches well with white meat dishes (and even, amazingly, with the classic grilled lamb chops so beloved in this region). This is a re-discovered indigenous wine which shows that it is no longer necessary to indiscriminately plant 'fashionable' international grape varieties.
"We preferred the Malvasia del Lazio 2000 which could aspire to 2 bicchieri, and the Rosso Riserva '97 which is well-made and with a good complexity."
"The wines of the month" by Ian D'Agata
"Soleggio '00. An excellent new red from Lazio: the purest of Cabernet Sauvignon ... deep, ruby red with violet reflections Wonderful nose of small black fruits, graphite and tobacco. A rich and long-lasting palate. Truly excellent the Pallavicini whites, the Frascati Selezione Verde'01 and particularly the Malvasia La Giara '01."
by Luciano di Lello
"We really appreciated the clear freshness of the frascati Selezione Verde, and amongst the reds, the rich determination of Cabernet Sauvignon Soleggio."
"Between painting and wineyard has born the Frascati in Colonna" by Luciano di Lello
Selezione Verde is one of the best Frascati's on the market. Clear, sprightly and pleasurable. Il Pagello, from Falanghina and Grechetto grapes is also interesting. But the red which displays great potential is Torre Pasolina '01 from a new vineyard of Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc. It is immediately appealing, well- structured, fresh and with sweet and noble aromas. Next is Soleggio '00, a cabernet to keep an eye on, elegant , classical and complex."
The best tasting web page- by Luciano di Lello
"Principe Pallavicini with many hectares of vineyards at the doors of Rome, has spent many years quietly re-planting and organising its vines. The result is a very interesting new package with an excellent balance between quality and price both for the whites and the reds.
Selezione Verde '01 - 81-82 points - Along with the 2000 this is one of the best Frascati of recent years. Authentic, minerally and agreeable. Modern, lively and with a long finish, elegant and well-balanced.
Torre Pasolina '01 - 81 points -This Cabernet Sauvignon is the first harvest from vines specially selected for quality. The grapes were vinified in temperature controlled steel tanks. The result is an irrepressible red wine, deep colour, intriguing and radiant. Delightful sweet aromas, appetizing and full which leaves one to anticipate with pleasure future harvests from these vines as they mature.
Pagello '01 - 79-80 points - This is the new label for the white wine which has been created from the experiment of Greco, Grechetto and Falanghina. This wine is completely different from Selezione Verde with its fatness and high alcohol. The base is herby, tiny flowers from the maquis and spicy. Full rounded palate which leaves an aromatic almost chewy richness.
Soleggio '00 - 84 points - Also a new label to be released in the autumn and which represents the best of Cabernet matured in Barrique. Wine tasted therefore in preview. However, an important nose with forest fruits and vanilla on base of sweet nuttiness. Definitely an interesting red to follow with great anticipation.
"Yet today's producers homing in on the grape behind the best Frascatis – Malvasia Puntinata – are putting out wines of extraordinary character, perhaps adding Voigner, which seems thrive here. A well- hung Malvasia Puntinata (like Pallavicini La Giara) can develop remarkably Riesling-like quasi-petrolly perfumes which, combined with silky mouthfeel, can make quite experience."
Principe Pallavicini. Quest'azienda vinicola produce a Colonna un'ampia selezione di vini: al primo posto ovviamente il Frascati ma non da meno è il Sangiovese Lazio IGT 2002 (Tiaso ndr), dal bel colore rosso porpora, al palato offre sentori di bacche rosse e ciliegia con note speziate di tostatura."
"A Colonna la Principe Pallavicini, dopo anni di investimento in nuovi vigneti, esprime oggi etichette di ragguardevole livello, a cominciare dal Selezione Verde 2001, uno dei migliori frascati mai espressi, di esemplare equilibrio, nitido, nervoso, gradevolissimo. Altro interessante bianco è il Pagello. Novità infine il Torre Pasolina 2001, un cabernet sauvignon dal frutto immediato, godibilissimo e prorompente."
Three to drink with ... stew by Tomas Clancy.
Rosso Riserva (La Cavata) 1995.
This monumental cabernet sauvignon and montepulciano-driven exotica would of course be a classic Super-Tuscan but for the inconvenient fact that it hails from the Castelli Romani Hills just south of Rome. This is a wine thick with sediment that even today needs decanting just to tame it. The nose is ungenerous but the deepest ruby colour will lift the heart. The wash is rich with plum and chocolate notes, the finish warm and very lengthy. This begs for a slow cooked lamb stew where the meat falls apart on your spoon and the potatoes dissolve into a big, meaty broth.












